As far as cocoa goes, a bean is just a bean—right? Whether it grew on the breezy Caribbean Island of Grenada or in the sultry Latin American jungles of Ecuador the final result should be the same. And it is, at least to those of us who like to nosh on convenience store candy bars. For chocolate connoisseurs, agricultural professors and botany experts, however, the idea of all beans being equal couldn’t be further from the truth. So many factors play a role in the final outcome of what finally becomes fine chocolate, that it’s almost as dizzying as your first taste of a La Maison truffle. First let me give you some important background on cocoa tree distinctions—then we can move on to the various soil and climatic elements that contribute to the delectable differences between a Hershey bar and a Dagoba bullion.
There are three distinct types of cocoa tree, Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario. Criollo trees produce the finest grade and quality of cocoa beans. A very small percent of the world’s cocoa beans come from Criollo and they have become rarer in the last decade. Beans from this tree are less bitter, have a distinct buttery taste and an exceptional aroma. They are the exalted queens of the cocoa bean bearing tress. The workhorse of cocoa is the more abundant Forastero, and it produces a less flavorful bean. Forastero accounts for most of the cocoa beans grown in the world. Its yields, obviously, are considerably higher than that of Criollo. These trees are easier to grow and less picky about climate and soil. This type is used in almost every commercial chocolate product made, to some extent or another. The last tree is a hybrid form of cocoa called Trinitario. The beans from these tress will possess characteristics of both Criollo and Forastero, to varying degrees. They are said to blend the best of both worlds and have the taste characteristics of Criollo (but with a fruitier flavor) and are easier and less finicky to grow like Forastero.
Within these three types of plants there are multiple, indeed thousands, of variations in flavor in the beans they produce. Many diverse distinctions contribute to those differences and the final result of what will create the finest flavored cocoa beans in the world. The differences between beans that come from Criollo trees is the main focus of this editorial and this subject alone could fill volumes, but I’ll try and keep it succinct. Within the range of beans harvested from Criollo trees, the soil and climate of each region that grows them is large part of the reason why flavors will differ so much from bean crop to bean crop. The flavor of cocoa beans from Venezuela will produce a flavor of chocolate quite distinctly different than those from Ecuador.
The reason for these differences, according to Dr. David Pimentel, professor of ecology and agricultural science at the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Cornell University, is that "Organic matter in the soil of different regions of the world will ultimately effect how the bean that is harvested from that particular tree will taste." I asked if climatic differences in the region and differences in types of fertilization would produce drastic changes in characteristics as well, Dr. Pimentel concurred by saying, "Climate factors play a huge role in any plants internal structure and therefore the taste of any fruit it bears. These conditions alone can influence a difference in taste." Just to complicate things further, organically, shade grown beans will taste significantly better, displaying many nuances of flavor and aroma, than "plantation" sun grown beans which produce a flat, one-dimensional flavor. Even if we look at micro-climates in specific regions themselves a noticeable difference will occur from tree to tree depending upon the immediate surrounding area. So a tree that grows just a few miles from another may display a difference in the beans it produces.
Enterprising chocolatiers who understand these distinctions in quality and flavor are capitalizing on the rare availability of beans from the Criollo tree. Artisanal chocolates have become quite popular among connoisseurs in the last several years. With the growing research and news surrounding the benefits of chocolate high in coco content, better known as semi-sweet or bitter chocolate, connoisseurs are not the only candy lovers interested in these specialty confections. Health conscious individuals delighted with the new research surrounding chocolate have shelved their wheat germ in favor of the dark, decadent treat. Sales of dark chocolate have more than tripled in the last three years.
But consumers still worry that the dark stuff they purchase at the grocer is of the healthiest quality. Several articles have been written alluding that large companies continue to over process their products thereby removing most of the health benefits. Realizing this, savvy consumers have been actively seeking out specialty made chocolates, which they feel are well worth the higher price tag. Artisanal chocolates are created in very small batches, possess high coco content, and are not over processed. These chocolate making methods retain the anti-oxidant properties usually watered down or processed out of the commercially made stuff. Additionally, most artisanal’s support organic growing practices, sustainable farming and the farming community as well, which is comprised of small family run farms. They offer much higher prices for their high commodity beans so that they can continue to produce better beans. It is a well known fact that cocoa farmers have for years been exploited by both their own governments and the big businesses who buy from them, which has ultimately resulted in the diminishing of these small organic farms. Besides, chocolate made from these beans simply taste better. The large majority of us who eat chocolate regularly have never eaten a "real" cocoa bar. Thus we think that the candy we purchase from supermarkets, convenience stores and even specialty chocolate shops, is divine. However, like fine wines, if we are accustomed to drinking mass produced Chablis we do not realize the joys of having an exquisitely, small vineyard produced, Grenache roll over our tongues. And like the varietal grapes which will add distinct essence and aroma to the fine wine that is produced from them, varietal cocoa beans will create chocolate that is made for the pure pleasure of tasting.
The multiple factors in climate, soil and care of cocoa trees will affect the final outcome of the aroma, texture and flavor of that lovely chocolate that ultimately ends up in your hands, and mouth. Considering the work that mother nature put into creating the most exceptional cocoa beans in the world, you owe it to her to ponder the magic of, in what my opinion is, her greatest gift to humankind—Chocolate. The next time you place a superbly made piece of chocolate on your tongue, and savior its nuances of flavor, close your eyes and imagine the warm, rich soil, the dewy canopy of trees, and the Caribbean breezes that took that humble little morsel from the pod to your palate.
Photo © Nicolas Paulin - FOTOLIA
