If you thought that finding high quality chocolate, made organically, outside of health food stores might be a daunting task, you’re in luck. There is currently a bourgeoning niche in the candy market called "Artisan Chocolate." This is a select group of chocolate makers who use only the finest quality beans grown in the world, which is then roasted to perfection and used to create a superb end product. The beans used for these confections only come from two types of tree, the Criollo and the Trinitario. If you did not get a chance to read my June article on the subject of cacao trees and beans, I’ll give you some quick insight here. Criollo and Trinitario make up a very small percentage of the cacao beans produced in the world. The chocolate they produce, however, is the most complex and refined to be found anywhere, provided that those processing and making the chocolate are experts at their jobs. That is where the growers come in. Artisan chocolate makers tend to pay much higher fees to small, family owned coco farmers than their mass manufacturer counterparts, thus ensuring proper care and processing of the beans. Nine times out of ten these beans are also grown organically. These chocolatiers passionately support sustainable farming so that the rare and exquisite beans, that need special care and attention, will continue to be grown for many years to come.
Several of these companies are gaining worldwide renown and recognition in the seemingly flooded market of chocolate making. When it comes to extraordinary chocolate, there’s always room for a few more greats. The most exceptional of these chocolate alchemists is Dagoba. This company produces fine organic chocolate bars for eating and baking, chocolate syrup, cacao nibs, drinking chocolate and cacao powder. In 2005 they were given the "Tastemaker Award," from Food and Wine, the "Socially Responsible Business Award," the "Spirit of Organic Award," and the title of "Best Organic Chocolate," by Time Magazine. On their website Dagoba, which means temple in Sanskirt, describes themselves with this statement, "We’re family owned and dedicated to the Art of Chocolate Alchemy: transforming cacao into exquisite chocolate through Full Circle Sustainability (tm) that blends quality, ecology, equity & community. We seek fine flavor, organic, sustainable cacao via direct partnerships and make small batches with great care." Respect for their business ethics is reason enough to purchase their chocolate, but another bonus is that their products have an incredible taste. Time knew what they were talking about when they doled out their award for Best Organic to these folks. The coco contents and flavors they offer are varied and they specialize in a "single origin" line of chocolates which is comparable to a single malt whisky in the liquor world. The beans for this chocolate come from a single tree, or group of trees on a single farm, to produce a bar of connoisseur quality. Although a little high on price, the flavor is worth the expense. If you are new to single origin chocolates, try Dagoba’s "Tasting Kit" which combines a half-pound of several individually wrapped chocolate varietals for you to sample for $20.00. You may find Dagoba at specialty grocers, gourmet shops and online at www.DagobaChocolate.com.
There are several more artisan’s worth mentioning. Sweet Earth is the chocolate maker with a heart. This company is Fair Trade and Organic Certified. They donate their net profits to a charitable organization they created called "Project Hope and Fairness." PHF’s goal is to help cacao farmers by promoting sustainable farming, educating consumers about unfair labor practices and encouraging the adoption of Fair Trade practices. And their chocolate? Excellent. Proof again that nice guys and girls can win, and make great candy too. You may purchase their chocolates at www.SweetEarthChocolates.com or by phoning in your order at 805 441 6727. Lillie Belle Farms also makes organic chocolates with a focus on organic fruit additions, making their product doubly delicious and environmentally responsible. Although they mention that they support organic Costa Rican, sustainable farming and mention that they pay wages 2 to 3 times the minimum, someone ought to enlighten them about exactly how low the minimum wage is in Costa Rica. As of 2003 the average monthly wage for a domestic worker in that country was approximately the equivalent of $142.00. Hopefully the farmers will get a raise once Lillie Belle’s sales increase. A move in this direction would boost Lillie Belle’s social responsibility to equal their obvious concern for the environment. This company makes a great variety of single origin, organic fruit filled chocolates and ganaches that are delicious and pretty to boot. Lastly, and worth mentioning, is the British company called Chocolate Alchemist. Located in Sussex this company is also very environmentally conscious and even uses re-cycled materials in all their packaging whenever possible. They make exquisite organic truffles in flavors such as Apple & Cinnamon, Lemon & Ginger and Chili & Lime. They mention on their site that they support Fair Trade farming and deal with small co-op farmers in the Dominican Republic. They go on to say that while they cannot label their products "Fair Trade" they support the idea. Which begs the question, "Why the heck not?" Did they run out of certifications in the UK? Anyway, you can order their enticing candies, and perhaps encourage them to take the Fair Trade plunge, by calling 798 860 995 or by printing out an order form at www.TheChocolateAlchemist.com.
If all this talk of social and environmental consciousness is making you feel guilty—good. To make a big change in the way chocolate manufacturers do business takes everyone chipping in a little. But don’t let that stop you from enjoying your socially unconscious chocolate bar, I’m not trying to rain on anyone’s candy parade. Perhaps, just keep in mind the fine artisans I’ve mentioned above and when you’re feeling a little magnanimous; give their stuff a try for a change. You could just save your palate and a few farmers in the process.
Amendment to Artisan Chocolates:
I received an email at the end of August from Jeff Shepard of Lillie Belle. He was kind enough to point out to me that the information I obtained from his website concerning payment to Costa Rican farmers being 2-3 times the minimum wage was actually taken directly from Dagoba’s website. Dagoba is a supplier of chocolate to Lillie Belle and evidently they have changed the original statement on their own site to read 1.5 times the minimum wage. http://www.dagobachocolates.com/.
Since this statistic was not given by Lillie Belle I am retracting my previous statement which called upon that company to make themselves aware of just how low the Costa Rican minimum wage is. Dagoba chocolate has a fine reputation as a company that makes every effort to aid the efforts of sustainable farming and partnering with Costa Rican farm workers who are supplied health benefits and a better than average wage. However, I stand by my assertion that the wages they do receive, one and a half times the Costa Rican minimum wage, is, (as stated in my article), the equivalent of approximately 142.00 American dollars per month and that the excess, (1.5) is not as commendable as it sounds. It would certainly be a boon to these farmers if the estates they worked for were encouraged to pay them a better wage by any chocolate company that does business with them.
I would like to make it clear that I greatly admire both Dagoba and Lillie Belle for their outstanding industry practices and commitment to the environment. They are business people who are examples of the best there is to offer in both tasty chocolate and exceptional ethics.
